Big Wave culture[ edit ] A surfer in Santa Cruz, California A non-competitive adventure activity involving riding the biggest waves possible known as "rhino hunting" is also popular with some surfers. A practice popularized in the s has seen big wave surfing revolutionized, as surfers use personal watercraft to tow them out to a position where they can catch previously unrideable waves see tow-in surfing. These waves were previously unrideable due to the speed at which they travel.
Nature is where it all begins for the Hawaiians. The 'aina is a heart issue for Hawaiians. The very word 'aina brings forth deep emotion evolved from ancestral times when people lived in nature as an integral part of it.
Mankind and nature were considered siblings born to the same parents at the beginning of time. Dependent on nature, they revered and respected it. Success depended on living in harmony with nature. Note Hawaiians Cultivating Taro.
In Hawaiian tradition, cooperation comes largely from a notion of respect for one's own extended family 'ohana. And Hawaiians believe they have a genealogical connection as well as a spiritual connection to Mother Nature and all that she provides. For Hawaiians, the stars in the sky are the Mother, the sky is the Father, the Earth is the Grandmother, the Kalo Taro plant is the elder brother, and the Islands are the Aunties and Uncles.
Thus, the connection between 'ohana family and the 'aina land is very strong. Surfing counter culture third born was Ho'ohokukalani to make stars in the sky. Their union also creates Haloa Naka, a fetus born without life that is buried.
In the place where the fetus is buried sprouts the first Kalo plant. Soon after, Haloa is born a strong and healthy man and becomes the first Hawaiian person. Courtesy of Bishop Museum Archive This genealogy of Papa and Wakea is critical in forming the relationship between Hawaiians and the 'aina around them.
The term 'ohana comes from the Kalo plant itself. As he traveled throughout the islands, he experienced overwhelming warmth, generosity and hospitality from the native Hawaiian people he met.
This is the famous aloha spirit that the world has come to identify with Hawai'i, and it was Woody's salvation. It is given without restraint or ulterior motive, and it is expressed with a geniality which springs from one who is secure in his society and his environment.
Courtesy of Bishop Museum Archive Love and caring for the land is aloha 'aina and the same attitude toward the sea is aloha kai. These ideas illustrate the love and respect that Hawaiians have for the world around them, the same love, affection and respect they feel for their 'ohana and all people of good will.
There were kapu taboos set on what one could take from the land and from the sea; conservation was practiced in fishing as well as hunting and gathering of wild plants.
Hawaiians took only what they needed from their environment and that respect enabled them to have some of the most productive agriculture and aquaculture throughout the Pacific. In fact, although there was no concept of monetary wealth in ancient times, the word for prosperity was waiwai double water.
In nature, the ancient Hawaiians found all the waiwai they needed. To Hawaiians, the family consisted not only of the usual blood relatives, but also those who were loved or who chose to participate in cooperative actions. The 'ohana is not unique to Hawai'i or to Polynesia. The extended family or clan structure is universal in human society, although it's more pronounced in agrarian societies before the emergence of individualism and market economies.
Hawaiians and Polynesians were very much aware of themselves as a member of the larger 'ohana. They would pack up a picnic lunch and load the children and the surfboards into the car and head to the beach for a day of surfing and family enjoyment.In order to successfully understand the inexplicable surfer’s lifestyle as a counter-culture to main society, we must first have a greater knowledge of the ingredients that make this culture so different in the views of the social norm.
Mimicking the culture of surfing without experiencing surfing itself seems superficial, even hypocritical, or just plain daft. Don Redondo is a legendary, and most probably fictitious, surfing guru. In a classic pronouncement, Don Redondo says: ‘You wanna know ’bout surfin’, you surf you don’t surf, you don’t know nothin’ ’bout.
For others, surfing is one thing, popular surf culture another. Or, to think of it in a different way; in a capitalist world, it is to be expected that any activity will be commodified.
The laid-back, romantic, somewhat rebellious image of surfing is easily packaged up and sold to consumers – at an impressive profit. It was into this intimate, counter-culture community of lost boys that Kathy Kohner stepped in the summer of The surfers were virtually unbothered and ignored—they were an afterthought in.
In order to successfully understand the inexplicable surfer’s lifestyle as a counter-culture to main society, we must first have a greater knowledge of the ingredients that make this culture so different in the views of the social norm. History of Australia's Beach Culture Surfing Rebirth of surfing in Australia, Duke Kahanamoku, was invited to give a surfboard riding exhibition at Freshwater Beach.
Surfing as a Counterculture History of Australia's Beach Culture - Surfing and surf lifesaving today .